Unveiling Telegraph Cove's Secrets: Past, Present, and Unexpected Twists
Updated: Dec 16, 2024
My summer road trip began in the middle of June, and I spent the first months weaving my way through the wonders of British Columbia's Interior. I spent most of my time in the Kootenays with some stops in the Okanagan. I've enjoyed waterfalls and hot springs, historic forts and villages, lingered alongside beautiful beaches, and gathered stories along the way. My faithful companion in my road trip adventures is "Wanda," my beloved converted Sprinter van. If you're curious about Wanda's transformation and the tales she holds, be sure to take a peek at how our story began here.
Typically, the wildfire situation surges at the end of July, nudging me to pivot my course toward a new adventure. And so, I found myself on Vancouver Island, a haven of lush landscapes and coastal magic. My northern starting point was the captivating Port Hardy, a place where estuaries, herons, and First Nations culture abound. I spent an incredible week on Malcolm Island soaking up the unique culture of this remote island community
Today is all about a great stop along the highway between Port McNeill and Campbell River, the enchanting Telegraph Cove. Telegraph Cove was first established as an isolated telegraph station in the early 1900s. The community grew into a logging and fishing hub before being virtually abandoned. It is now a thriving resort community specializing in eco-tourism.
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Getting to Telegraph Cove
Telegraph Cove is located on the northeastern coast of Vancouver Island, approximately 51/2 hours north of Victoria. Getting to Telegraph Cove requires a combination of transportation options, including having a vehicle. It is relatively easy to travel to Vancouver Island without a vehicle, but exploring outside cities is next to impossible. From end to end, the drive from Victoria to Port Hardy will take about 5.5 hours on smooth, well-maintained roads. Be aware that there are stretches along the road without cell service, so make sure to download any navigation instructions.
Rent a Vehicle
Spend some time researching costs to determine if renting a vehicle on the island is less expensive than renting one on the mainland. Don't forget to factor in the cost of a vehicle on the ferry.
The major rental companies can be found at the three major Vancouver Island airports (Victoria, Nanaimo, Comox) as well as in the larger cities. If you are interested in trying out van life, there are also some small camper van rental companies. I haven't used any of the local campervan rental companies, but a friend was pleased with his rental from Just Go Vans. Farout Wilderness is another company that rents out adventure trucks with roof-top tents. I also saw several of the wildly (and sometimes inappropriately decorated) Wicked Campers as I travelled on the Island. I have used Wicked Camper rentals in the UK and had no complaints with the company but the paint job of the vehicle I was assigned was fairly tame. Check out my post about renting a campervan or RV in the metro Vancouver area for more information.
Wicked Camper rental
A Walk Down Memory Lane
Growing up, I was privileged to visit this enchanting cove many times aboard my dad's small sailboat. Those were the days when the Salish Sea was known as the Gulf of Georgia, and Dad was determined that we would love boating as he did. In those days, Telegraph Cove was a humble stop along our maritime expeditions. The shoreline was a tapestry of ruins and decayed buildings, remnants of a past that seemed both distant and vibrant. The few souls who called this place home were individuals with deep ties to the community or squatters.
Fast forward to the present day, and the transformation is nothing short of remarkable. Telegraph Cove has risen from the vestiges of time, rescued and lovingly restored by a sprawling resort that now spills across the landscape.
The village's historic charm has been meticulously preserved, with informative signage and a seamless blend of empty display buildings and vibrant establishments. There are restaurants, pubs, and cafés; adventure tour operators and those once crumbling shacks are now available as quaint holiday rentals overlooking the cove. Other accommodations include hotel rooms, marina moorage, and fully-serviced campgrounds. The general store and bakery are well-stocked with groceries, necessities, local art, and goodies of all types.
The restoration of Telegraph Cove's village was a joy to behold. It transported me back in time and kindled a sense of nostalgia. The attention to detail and dedication to preserving its heritage were evident in every corner.
History of Telegraph Cove
Since the beginning of human history in this area, the Kwakwaka'wakw (kwa kwa kay wok) and Nuu-chah-nulth (new chaw noolth) First Nations have shared an intimate connection with these lands and waters, highlighted in their traditional stories and spirituality. While this particular cove was not the site of a First Nations' village and no artifacts have been found, it was likely visited by groups in the area.
Telegraph Cove began as a one-room telegraph station built by the federal government in 1911–12. The first major landowner purchased most of the land surrounding the cove, and together with Japanese investors, he built a salmon saltery and sawmill. The original and transient workers often began life in the cove by staying in a bunkhouse.
With towering trees surrounding the cove, it quickly became an important mill town and attracted families. As the community grew, it became a tight-knit village of deeply connected families. Unfortunately, the boom times did not last, and the community lost much of its population when the sawmill closed, and the fishing industry hit hard times.
Telegraph Cove Today
Today, Telegraph Cove's economy is based primarily on tourism due to its prime location near the Robson Bight Ecological Reserve. A huge attraction along this coast is the resident orca whales who make these waters their summer home, the abundant salmon, the ancient forests, and the stunning coastline.
The entire cove is privately owned by two different operators: The Telegraph Cove Marina & RV Park (the Marina) and the Telegraph Cove Resort (the Resort). Both have a campground, a marina, hotel space, and retail areas. Both operators have deep ties to the community and are dedicated to eco-tourism. The Resort, on the south side of the cove, is the older section and includes the historic village and most retail and food establishments. The Marina is newer and is located on the north side of the cove.
The Resort began restoring buildings and structures in the late 1970s but began to take off when Stubbs Island Whale Watching, the first whale-watching company, was established in Telegraph Cove in 1980. When the Robson Bight Ecological Reserve was created in 1982, tourism exploded. By the end of the 1990s, the resort built a restaurant, pub, general store, small hotel, and a sewage treatment plant. The outstanding Whale Interpretive Centre opened the museum in 1993, and is highly recommended. The Resort campground is located about 1km from the town and is known as the "Forest" campground. You'll find more information and my review of the Forest Campground here.
The Marina began to be developed at the end of the 1990s. Its campground is known as the "sunny" campground and features a great view of the harbour and, from some of the sites, the Johnstone Strait. It is located about a minute's walk from the historic village. The Marina also has hotel rooms and a modern marina. Prices vary considerably between all the various choices.
Historic Village of Telegraph Cove
The historic village, with its charming streets and timeworn buildings, presents a layout that reflects the community's roots. The residences and businesses in the historic village of Telegraph Cove are clustered on the waterfront, along the boardwalk. All the structures next to the water are built on stilts allowing the tide to rise and fall beneath the floors.
Over the years, as the timber industry waned and Telegraph Cove evolved into a destination for travellers, these historic residences have been lovingly preserved and now house businesses or serve as cozy accommodations.
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Eco Travel Adventures in Telegraph Cove
Telegraph Cove isn't just a place frozen in history; it's a portal to a world of thrilling experiences. Visitors will find wildlife, fishing, and kayak tours or can rent a canoe or kayak to explore independently.
Beyond the boardwalk, Telegraph Cove is surrounded by breathtaking natural wonders. Hiking trails meander through ancient forests, revealing views that stretch from lush woodlands to expansive seascapes. The Blinkhorn Trail starts in the Marina campground and leads up through the forest to a fabulous outlook. Some sections are challenging and rope assists are provided. I didn't do the entire 4-hour hike. I hiked for about an hour in and another hour out.
Kayaking is highly recommended for those wanting to get out on the water. Kayaks can be rented at the general store, so you don't need to bring your own.
As a coast-dweller, I have been blessed to see orcas swimming in the wild multiple times, and it never fails to thrill. The waters of Johnstone Strait attract many other species of marine mammals, too, including dolphins, porpoises, humpback whales, seals, and otters. I didn't see any orcas here, but I did see one humpback pass by. I was so excited that I fumbled with my camera and got my big lens out that I almost missed the shot!
Telegraph Cove has two of the top ecotour companies in the country. These experts offer unforgettable experiences and contribute to conservation and education efforts.
Prince of Whales Whale Watching tour : Headquartered in the heart of Telegraph Cove, the crew at Prince of Whales Whale Watching have perfected the art of marine encounters. Their extensive knowledge of local marine life and commitment to responsible tourism ensure a meaningful and educational experience. Check out my review of their tour here.
Tide Rip Grizzly Tours: is another adventure tour company with an office in Telegraph Cove. Their tours are marine adventures, from kayaking, whale watching and sport fishing to grizzly bear & wildlife viewing. The descriptions and photos are breathtaking. The Grizzly Bear excursion should be booked ahead.
These tours are on the pricier side, but they are worth every penny and will be the highlight of your trip. They are worthy of a splurge. I know I will be back in the area next summer and will build a Grizzly Tour into my budget. If you are unlikely to return, take a tour—take all the tours!
For more budget-friendly wildlife viewing, look for deer in the area. This one was just outside the village.
Tips for Visitors to Telegraph Cove
Telegraph Cove shifts with the seasons, each one bringing its unique charm. From my past visits, I can tell you that summer is a burst of activity and ideal for those seeking warmer temperatures and vibrant marine life encounters. However, if you're like me and appreciate a quieter atmosphere to soak in the serenity, the shoulder seasons might be more to your liking. The climate along this coast is mild and has few really cold days, so a visit in winter may be a good choice for you. Tours are less frequent in the off-season.
Be sure to keep an eye out for local events as well. Telegraph Cove hosts festivals, celebrations, and gatherings that capture the village's spirit. Reservations during peak season are recommended, especially for tours, which are often sold out weeks in advance.
Coastal weather is unpredictable, at best. It is noticeably cooler in northern Vancouver Island than in the Victoria area. Pack layers and rain gear.
Final Thoughts
Telegraph Cove is a small historic mill town and fishing village that has been lovingly restored and turned into an eco-tourism resort by dedicated long-time residents. Visitors will enjoy a short stop on a longer road to wander through the historic village and perhaps enjoy a meal and cold beverage on the boardwalk. Those with more time will want to linger and enjoy fishing, whale-watching, grizzly tours, or kayaking along the coast.
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