TransCanada Road Trip: Wawa to Sault Ste Marie
A TransCanada road trip. The thought conjures images of endless horizons, breathtaking landscapes, and the ultimate Canadian adventure. The nearly 8,000 km TransCanada Highway is a beast, but some sections just sing. For years, I'd dreamed of driving its entirety, a coast-to-coast odyssey showcasing the diverse beauty of this incredible country. That dream finally became a reality, and in this series, I'm sharing every kilometre, every quirky roadside attraction, and every unforgettable moment. This particular installment dives into one of the most spectacular stretches of the entire TransCanada road trip: the drive from Wawa to Sault Ste. Marie in Ontario.
Table of Contents
Setting the Stage: History
The Trans-Canada Highway is a monumental feat of engineering, stretching across Canada from coast to coast. Its construction began in 1949 and was finally completed in 1997, connecting the country's diverse regions and facilitating trade and travel. The highway crosses vast landscapes, from the rugged mountains of British Columbia to the rolling prairies of Saskatchewan and the vast expanse of the Canadian Shield in Ontario before continuing through Quebec and further to the beautiful Atlantic provinces.
This section between Wawa and Sault Ste Marie (The Soo) was built in the 1950's. The workers considered this section a bearcat' to build because of the challenging terrain. That rugged terrain gives us some pretty spectacular views. There are very few amenities along this section, so make sure you are prepared with fuel, snacks, and a picnic lunch.
The Wawa to Sault Ste. Marie section of the Trans-Canada Highway was once home to various Indigenous peoples, including the Anishinaabe, Ojibwe, and Cree, who relied on the land for hunting, fishing, and gathering. European fur traders and explorers followed, drawn by the region's abundant resources. Logging also played a significant role in the area's history, shaping the landscape and providing livelihoods for many.
Geologically, this section of the Trans-Canada Highway lies within the Canadian Shield, a vast expanse of ancient rock formations dating back billions of years. The Shield's rugged and rocky terrain is dotted with lakes and forests.
Art Connection: The Group of Seven
The beauty of the Canadian Shield has long captivated artists and inspired a sense of national identity. In the early 20th century, a group of seven Canadian landscape painters, known as the Group of Seven, sought to define a distinctly Canadian style of art. They were drawn to the untamed wilderness of the Canadian Shield, finding its dramatic landscapes and raw beauty to be a perfect subject for their bold and expressive paintings.
The Group of Seven's paintings of the Canadian Shield helped establish a new vision of Canada that celebrated the country's vast and untamed wilderness. Their work captured the essence of the Canadian Shield with its towering rock formations, sparkling lakes, and vast forests and helped inspire a sense of national pride and belonging.
As you travel through this area, you will encounter a unique series of educational markers at the locations of many of these masterpieces. These signposts provide an image of famous paintings, information about the work, and tips for visitors and photographers.
TransCanada Road Trip Wawa to Sault Ste Marie
Algoma County and Superior Shoreline
The section of the TransCanada Highway between Wawa and Sault Ste Marie is 224 km and hugs the eastern shore of Lake Superior. If you are driving straight through, without any stops, it will take about 3 hours. Don't do that. The majority of the drive goes through Lake Superior Provincial Park. I had decided to stop at every lookout, picnic spot, and short trek. I took it all day, but in retrospect, I wish I had stopped and camped for a few days. Many spectacular hikes needed more time.
Wawa: Gateway to the North
Our journey begins in the charming town of Wawa. Often referred to as the "Gateway to the North," One of Wawa's most iconic landmarks is the towering Wawa Goose, a massive steel sculpture that has become a beloved symbol of the town. This quirky roadside attraction makes for a great photo opportunity and is a must-visit for any traveller.
Wawa is an Ojibwe meaning "wild goose", and explaining the famous goose sculpture. The town’s history spans back to the fur trading days and has since served as a hub for forestry, mining and boat-building industries. Today, Wawa attracts visitors for fishing and kayaking on Lake Superior, many winter snowmobile trails and (of course) for snapping a selfie with the Wawa Goose, one of the most photographed landmarks in North America. I started my day at the visitor center in Wawa, home of the famous goose sculpture, but I was more impressed with the bright and colourful carvings of Gitchee Goumi.
Gitchee Goumi (or similar) is the Ojibwe word for "Big Sea". This name was made famous by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow in his poem "The Song of Hiawatha" and by Gordon Lightfoot in his song "The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald". As is common in many First Nations story-telling, the lake controls much of the natural and human world.
Lake Superior
This vast body of water, the largest freshwater lake in the world, dominates the landscape along much of the Trans-Canada Highway between Wawa and Sault Ste. Marie. Lake Superior's sheer size and beauty are truly awe-inspiring, and there are numerous scenic overlooks along the highway where you can stop and take in the breathtaking views. The sheer size of the Great Lakes, especially Lake Superior, cannot be understood until you can stand on the lakeshore to see big waves and tides in a lake. Some popular lookouts include Agawa Bay, Batchawana Bay, and the Lake Superior Provincial Park lookout.
Old Woman Bay
One of my first stops was Old Woman Bay in Lake Superior Provincial Park, it seemed appropriate. Old Woman Bay is a long sandy beach with driftwood surrounded by stunning natural beauty. Looking towards the horizon, the face of the Old Woman can be seen within the 200-metre standing cliffs to the left.
Katherine's Cove
The Lizard Islands shelters the sand beach at Katherine's Cove. The shallow waters promise a nice warm swim. A short walk across the sandbar leads to Bathtub Island.
Pinguisibi River Hike
The hike follows the Pinguisibi River, which winds through a remote and rugged landscape of towering cliffs, cascading waterfalls, and pristine forests. The trail is challenging but rewarding, offering hikers the chance to experience the true wilderness of the Canadian Shield. Expect to spend at least 3 hours on this linear trail.
Agawa Rock
The Agawa area is breathtaking, and I was looking forward to my next stop. I wanted to see Agawa Rock, where pictographs are painted onto the side of the rocks. It was a short but treacherous trail.
It was a rugged trail with many ups and downs, narrow pass-throughs, and rocky pathways. I appreciated the shade on a hot day. I was surprised at how few people I encountered on the trail.
Agawa Rock is a sacred site for generations of Ojibwe. The pictographs record dreams, visions and events and have proven resilient, withstanding the harshest elements given their location. The paintings continue to fade away over time. Sun, wind, waves and ice are naturally causing erosion of the cliff face. Lichen or mineral deposition covers the figures in some places.
The pictographs are located on the water side of the cliffs. This surface receives intense weather. It is estimated the pictographs will only last about 400 years. It is unknown how many pictographs have already faded from Agawa Rock. Ironically, since this site is protected, no new pictographs will be created at this site and will disappear in time.
There are pictographs all along this cliff just above water level, with more even further around the corner, approximately another 500m. There is a chain to hang onto as you walk. It's hard to tell in this photo, but those rocks are at a very steep angle. The ranger was standing beside me as I took this photo. He told me he was not allowed to go further unless a visitor got into difficulty. If you slip, there is a preserver they can throw you. Strangely, that was not reassuring.
The young ranger made it clear that going much further was not wise. I decided I would listen to the lovely young man. Next time, I will get a boat tour to see it from the water, likely the only view the pictograph artists had.
Visitors may be interested in taking the Agawa Canyon Tour Train. This scenic train ride takes visitors through the rugged beauty of the Canadian Shield, offering stunning views of forests, waterfalls, and lakes.
Chippewa Falls
Chippewa Falls is considered the halfway point of the TransCanada Highway. There are some stunning spots along the river. The falls include several pools where the swimming is pleasant. It's a short walk from the parking to the falls and is a good place to stretch your legs and spend a couple of hours. I enjoyed a soak in the water after exploring several trails.
Members of the Group of Seven rented railway boxcars parked on a siding near this spot. They "camped" in the boxcars for the summer in this area and created many sketches, paintings, and other studies.
Sault Ste. Marie: The Soo
Sault Ste. Marie, also known as "The Soo," marks the end of this section of the Trans-Canada Highway and offers a variety of attractions for visitors. Sault Ste Marie has a fascinating history. Before becoming a colonial fur trade Fort, it was a meeting place, trading center, and transportation hub for the Objibwa people. When the US - British North America border was drawn along St. Mary’s River, it divided the community, with a bit in each country. Like many places in Northern Ontario, it is a rather ugly industrial town surrounded by stunning beauty.
The Soo Locks
The British and Americans built fortifications and canals with locks. Today, however, only the American locks are used for commercial shipping. The US side upgraded the canal with two parallel channels and locks to be part of the St Lawrence Seaway. These deeper, larger locks enable grain and ore ships from Lake Superior to connect to smelter factories along the lower Great Lakes and Atlantic shipping at Montreal on the lower St Lawrence.
The older Canadian side is used by smaller recreational craft. Visitors can watch ships pass through the locks or take a tour to learn more about their operation at the Sault Ste Marie Canal National Historic Site.
The Canadian Bushplane Heritage Centre
This museum tells the story of bush flying in Canada and has a restaurant with stunning views of the St. Mary's River. The museum houses a collection of historic aircraft, including floatplanes, ski-equipped planes, and other aircraft used in bush flying operations. Visitors can also learn about the role of bush planes in resource exploration, community development, and search and rescue operations. The Canadian Bushplane Heritage Centre offers a fascinating glimpse into the history of aviation in Canada and the vital role that bush planes have played in opening up the Canadian wilderness.
Art Gallery of Algoma
Located in Sault Ste. Marie, the Art Gallery of Algoma has a collection of paintings and sketches created by members of the Group of Seven in its permanent collection. I recommend booking a guided Northern Art that includes the AGA’s current exhibitions, a catered box lunch, and a hands-on art activity.
Ermatinger House
The Ermatinger House, a historic landmark in Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario, is a must-visit for anyone interested in the city's rich history. This grand Victorian mansion was built in 1875 by Edward Ermatinger, a prominent businessman and mayor of Sault Ste. Marie. The house is a beautiful example of Victorian architecture and is filled with original furnishings and artifacts from the Ermatinger family.
Final Thoughts
The drive along the Trans-Canada Highway between Wawa and Sault Ste Marie, from the majestic Wawa Goose to the bustling Soo Locks, is a journey through the heart of Northern Ontario's rugged beauty. This stretch of road offers a taste of everything that makes Canada special: stunning natural landscapes, fascinating history, quirky roadside attractions, and a deep connection to the land. Whether you're a seasoned road tripper or just starting to explore, this section of the Trans-Canada Highway promises an unforgettable adventure.
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