Savona BC: Steelhead Provincial Park, Lake Life and Ghost Towns
Every Provincial Park in British Columbia, Canada, offers unique experiences, but one of my favourite spots is in the unincorporated town of Savona: Steelhead Provincial Park. This small park, right on the southern edge of Kamloops Lake, offers comfortable and affordable camping, the best of lake life, plus a glimpse at history. My days here were spent in the water and exploring the nearby "ghost town" at Deadman Junction Ranch. Come meander with me to discover all the charms of this lovely and historically interesting park.
Regular readers know I spend my summers road-tripping around British Columbia in my beloved campervan without a detailed itinerary. I have unlimited time as I am officially retired and have few responsibilities tied to a schedule. I like the flexibility of responding to weather and whims, often making decisions on routing, accommodations, and activities daily. My discovery of this area was the result of that lack of planning.
I was following the TransCanada Hwy (Hwy #1) from Wells Gray Park, planning to slowly make my way north to Prince George, where I would meet a friend who would join me for a couple of weeks on my adventures. I had spent the previous weeks in remote mountain areas and was looking for a place to spend a few days taking it easy and enjoying some lake time. Mountain lakes are gorgeous but too cold for me to consider swimming or paddling. I wanted somewhere I could do some paddle boarding and floating with lovely scenery, and I found exactly what I was looking for at Steelhead Provincial Park.
Table of Contents
Getting to Savona BC
Savona (SAH-von-nah) is a small unincorporated community approximately half an hour from Kamloops in the Thompson region of south-central British Columbia. Located at the southern end of Kamloops Lake, it has semi-arid grasslands and hills with fabulous lake views. During the summer months, this area is dry and hot.
A Glimpse Into History
The original occupants of this land were the Secwépemc (SHE-kwe-pem) First Nations. They fished, hunted and traded throughout the area. The first settlers to the area were French-speaking fur traders. The Hudson's Bay Company Trail introduced more English speakers, and settlement began in the Deadman Creek area, where homes and a church were built.
In the mid-1850s, a ferry service across the Thompson River was introduced. When the Klondike Gold Rush began, this ferry service was very busy, and a stagecoach company was established to transport miners to the northern gold fields. Soon, a post office, stores, hotels, breweries, and a jail were added. In the early 1900s, Savona grew a little. A school opened, and a community hall was built.
Today, Savona is a quiet town with around 1,000 people. There are a few businesses, including a general store, a hotel, a gas station, and a restaurant. The community is also home to a community hall, a library, and a park. I was intrigued by this old railway car turned into a private residence that was located at the edge of the park. As much as I tried to find more information, I was unsuccessful. If any of my readers know the story behind this, please let me know in the comments.
Steelhead Provincial Park
Established in 1993, Steelhead (Sk'emqin) Park is on land with significant archeological value. The Secwepemc people used the site for 7,000 to 10,000 years, and in more recent history, it was the site of a pioneer homestead, ferry landing, and stagecoach depot.
A few historical buildings and a cemetery are within the park's boundaries. The wooden buildings include the former Wilson Homestead and several sheds. It is one of the oldest homesteads in the region. The Wilson house is the largest building on the site and is thought to be the original home of Francois Saveneux, who operated the first ferry. Care has been taken to preserve the fruit trees and shrubbery planted by the original owners.
A couple of the original homestead sheds are also on site. These sheds include some old equipment. There is no educational signage, but the Park Caretaker was happy to share her knowledge of the old homestead with me.
The cemetery is on a bluff overlooking the park. Today, it includes one memorial and the remains of a decorative fence. It is the final resting place of Francois Saveneaux and Mason Velatti, the owner of the first brewery.
The sandy beach area includes trees and shrubbery, allowing visitors to get shade and enjoy the beach throughout the day. One of the most notable sights along the beach area is the tall wooden poles where the original steamships were tied up.
The water is comfortably cooling and calm. I spent many hours reading on my floatie chair, interspersed with some paddle boarding. As a novice paddler, I appreciated the calm, shallow waters.
There are 44 campsites (10 with power and water connections), picnic tables, showers, and flush toilets. The park is seasonal, open from May to mid-October. The daily rate is a bargain at $23 per night, with an additional $5 charge for power. The sites do not offer much privacy, but the views of the beach and lake beyond give them a much more open feeling.
Deadman Junction Ranch
Deadman Junction Ranch is approximately 5 minutes west along Hwy 1 from Steelhead Provincial Park. It is easy to miss the entrance on the right side of the highway. After passing the Deaman Junction Rodeo Grounds, look for the "Ghost Town" sign. If you miss the turn (don't ask me how I learned this!), there is a side street about 1 minute along the road where you can turn around safely.
Deadman Junction Ranch is a delightful recreation of a Western town built by local Matt Sandvoss. This replica town includes a trading post, saloon, jail, drug store, blacksmith shop, and other interesting buildings, including the inevitable gift shop.
The authentic feel of the site will make visitors believe they have stepped right into an old western movie. There's a good reason for that. Deadman's Junction was initially built as a film set. While the buildings behind the fence are full-sized, the "town" on the hill is a film set.
The posted visitor hours are 10:00 to 18:00 daily. However, I arrived shortly after 10:00 on a Tuesday, and it was obviously closed. I enjoyed wandering outside the site and peeking through the fence, but it left me wanting to return to see the whole site. I returned the following day at noon and found it open. I had the place all to myself for my visit. The cost of admission is $5.
Online reviews describe encounters with a grumpy owner, but I had no problems and felt welcomed during my visit.
Plan to spend at least an hour exploring the little town. Photographers and history buffs will want even more time as the displays are very detailed. The outdoor exhibits have very little shade. A hat and water bottle are recommended.
Final Thoughts
Steelhead Provincial Park offers a delightful blend of history, nature, and relaxation. For visitors seeking some lake time, a glimpse into the past, or a unique outdoor adventure, this park has something to offer everyone. From the historical buildings and serene beach to the nearby ghost town of Deadman Junction Ranch, Steelhead Provincial Park is waiting to be discovered. So pack your bags, grab your paddleboard, and plan on spending at least a couple of days at this charming and unforgettable destination.
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