San Josef Bay - Exploring the Best Wilderness Beach in Canada
I first learned of San Josef Bay through social media posts. Its pristine beaches, towering cliffs, and turquoise waters, seen in countless breathtaking photos, piqued my curiosity. Lonely Planet had even declared it the best wilderness beach in Canada. But could it genuinely rival the stunning beaches of Tofino, renowned for their beauty and surf culture? Determined to find out, I added San Josef Bay to this year's Northern Vancouver Island itinerary.
I had arrived in Port Hardy the previous night following a spectacular ferry ride through the Inside Passage (click here to learn more). I was travelling with my Austrian travel buddy, who had joined my road trip for two weeks. I wanted to share the most spectacular parts of coastal BC with her. We had just spent a week in Haida Gwaii (road trip itinerary here) and planned to visit some of my favourite places on Vancouver Island, but I also wanted to discover places new to me.
Table of Contents
A Brief History
The region has been home to the Kwakwaka'wakw people, including the Quatsino and Koskimo for thousands of years. The Quatsino people's origin stories begin here.
The first European explorers arrived in the late 18th century, but settlement didn't begin until the late 19th century. The settlers, mainly of Danish heritage, established farming and fishing communities but were challenged by the harsh coastal environment and eventually abandoned the area.
Later, the logging industry significantly impacted the ecosystem and traditional Indigenous life. Preservation efforts began in the last part of the 1900s with the establishment of Cape Scott Provincial Park.
Location and Getting There
San Josef Bay is part of Cape Scott Provincial Park on northern Vancouver Island, BC, Canada. There is no public transportation to San Josef Bay but several companies based in Port Hardy offer tours for visitors without a vehicle. Trekking adventurers may choose to arrive by following the popular North Coast Trail hike, but I was on a road trip.
Although the distance from Port Hardy to Cape Scott Provincial Park is only about 70 km, it is a bone-rattling and dusty drive along a busy gravel logging road that will take most people close to two hours to complete. Much of the surface is uneven and full of deep potholes and ruts. The dust will find its way through air vents and open windows. Ensure your vehicle is in good condition with proper tire pressure and tread. There is no cell connection along the road or at San Josef Bay.
One small logging camp village along the way has a gas station, but I recommend filling up in Port Hardy before setting out on your adventure -- especially if you require diesel fuel. The small service station has no diesel pump but can add fuel to your tanks via jerry cans.
Drivers must know that logging trucks are given priority on logging roads. The drivers of these massive logging trucks know these roads intimately and drive aggressively. Regular vehicles are expected to pull over to let them pass. If travelling in the summer, look for plumes of dust as a signal of approaching vehicles. I would not attempt this drive in the winter, but I'm a cautious driver in a less-than-nimble campervan. I cannot emphasize strongly enough the terror of having one of these fully loaded trucks barrelling toward you -- get out of their way!
Holberg Village
In its early days, Holberg was a floating logging camp—at one time the world’s largest—for forestry workers in the area. Today, logging operations are entirely land-based. We briefly stopped at the Holberg Pitstop, an all-in-one convenience store, guest house, shower stop, gas station, canoe rentals and bar (and likely several other services I haven't mentioned).
We were encouraged to visit the nearby Ronning's Garden, which features exotic plantings of bamboo, Japanese maples, and the World's Tallest Monkey Tree. We decided to continue straight to San Josef Bay, thinking we might stop on our return drive. We didn't do this, however, as we spent most of our day in the Bay and didn't want to be driving any part of the logging road as darkness fell. If this garden appeals to you, budget your time better than we did.
Just outside of Holberg, at the eastern end of Kains Lake, is an old cedar snag covered with hundreds of hikers' shoes and boots. It is worth stopping for a few minutes to take a photo and consider the kilometres walked.
San Josef Bay
The parking lot is inadequate for the number of visitors and fills up quickly on a typical summer day. Later arrivals will require parking along the narrow roadway. Tuck your vehicle as close to the edge as possible, but be careful of the soft ground and shallow ditches. From the parking lot, you will follow an easy 2.5km (about 45 minutes) forested trail to the Bay.
Considering the full parking lot, it shouldn't have surprised us that the trail was busy. It was clear that many visitors planned to spend more time in the Bay with wagons and kayaks loaded with supplies.
The trail opens to a beautiful sandy beach with sea stacks, rocky cliffs, and caves. Despite the crowded parking lot and busy trail, there was so much space it felt like we had the beach to ourselves.
Plan to arrive during low tide to explore and access the second beach. Bears and wolves frequent the area, but we didn't see any. You may be lucky to spot whales or sea lions during high tide.
We spent hours beachcombing, soaking up the sunshine, exploring the sea stacks, while watching the fishers, swimmers, and boaters. The water was chilly, but the shallow waters near the beach warmed up nicely for wading. There were many photo shoots, but with so much space to explore, they did not feel intrusive or interfere with anyone's enjoyment of the beach.
I particularly enjoyed looking inside the small caves in the bluffs and stacks. I was startled in one of the deeper caves to come across a photo shoot with demon-costumed models. I quickly backed away, not daring to photograph the scene.
Campers will find spots where the forest and the beach meet. Pit toilets were discreetly placed within the trees. I saw no signs of a potable water supply, so ensure you bring enough. Food storage lockers are available, and campers are strongly advised to use them rather than get into a losing argument with a hungry bear.
Hikers who choose to camp on the beach should check out the hiking trails in Cape Scott Park.
Final Thoughts: San Josef vs Tofino
So what's the verdict? Is San Josef worth the trek? Is it more beautiful than Tofino?
San Josef is worth the journey if you are prepared for the drive and have a reliable vehicle. Both Tofino and San Josef have expansive sandy beaches with sea stacks, islands and thrilling sunsets. San Josef is a wilderness beach, whereas Tofino is a bustling small town with world-class surfing, a touristy vibe and plenty of services.
Tofino is ideal for adventure, relaxation, and a vibrant atmosphere. In contrast, San Josef Bay is perfect for nature lovers and those who crave solitude and a true wilderness experience. Ultimately, the best choice depends on your preferences and desired level of adventure. Both destinations offer breathtaking beauty and unforgettable experiences.
If you enjoy the content and would like to be kept up to date with new posts, become a member/subscribe (it's free!) and follow along on the RamblynJazz Facebook page, Facebook Group, BlueSky, Pinterest, Twitter, and Instagram. You can help the blog grow by sharing the link with a travelling friend or through social media. I truly appreciate your comments and encourage you to share your thoughts below.
If you are interested in purchasing high-resolution copies of the photos in this post, contact me at ramblynjazz@gmail.com
I was struck a bit by the shoe tree in Holberg Village, that's quite a sight of the number of hikers that sacrificed a shoe for this tree (hopefully they had comfortable spare shoes!). Our local and state parks definitely fill up in the summer, for the very reasons you describe so it doesn't surprise me that you pointed out the inadequate parking situation in San Josef Bay. I guess it's to maintain the balance but you still want people to enjoy that park. I like that you compared San Josef to Tofino, and I personally would lean more to Tofino. As much as I like a quiet place, I also like to see other people around too!
www.redsolotraveler.com
It looks worth the trek for me, but I'd need a better car. Logging roads are never fun to drive on but especially if you come across the trucks. Still, what a lovely beach, and good that it's a big area that it didn't feel crowded. Although you might think twice before popping into a dark cave again, right?!
I can't deny that for me San Josef is much more attractive than Tofino. Although it has completely different beauties, San Josef manages to be more scenic and that's the only reason why I would choose it. The trail to get there, although long, is very beautiful and complements the beauty of the place.
Perhaps the best way to avoid encountering so many tourists is to go outside of high season.
I've seen pictures of San Josef Bay, and they are as idyllic as you mentioned. It's quite funny to stumble upon a demon-themed photo shoot haha that would be quite the surprise when looking in a cave! While I'm a huge fan of whales, I've never seen a bear in the wild so that would be awesome to see!
San Josef beach looks like an adult playground to me, I would love to explore it's caves and collect any driftwood treasures. In parts your pictures reminded me of the Twilight films. I am sure there are many local myths and legends surrounding this beach as it has such a strong atmosphere and aura. Another great spot and now pinned on my Google maps.
Carolin | <a href="https://solotravelstory.com/">Solo Travel Story</a>