Prince Rupert, BC: Gateway to Haida Gwaii
Have you ever had a day to spare before embarking on a grand adventure? That happened to me before catching the ferry to Haida Gwaii. With limited time, I decided to explore the coastal town of Prince Rupert, British Columbia. Despite its short duration, my visit was packed with unforgettable experiences, from discovering a stunning museum to indulging in delicious local cuisine. Let's dive into my 24-hour adventure in this northern town.
I was on a summer-long road trip in my beloved campervan, heading to the islands of Haida Gwaii (formerly known as the Queen Charlotte Islands) off the coast of British Columbia. I had booked my ferry rides well in advance and had invited a friend to join me on this portion of my adventures. We planned to spend a week exploring Haida Gwaii and a week on Vancouver Island.
I had picked her up from the Prince George Airport. We spent the night in Prince George and drove leisurely along Highway 16, stopping at the K'san Campground in New Hazelton. The next day, we drove to Prince Rupert, with a brief stop in the town of Terrace, before arriving in the early afternoon.
Table of Contents
Prince Rupert
Getting to Prince Rupert
Camping Accommodations
Things to do in Prince Rupert
Museum of Northern BC
Wandering around Cow Bay
Discovering the Sunken Gardens
Final Thoughts
Prince Rupert
Prince Rupert is a coastal city in the northwestern corner of British Columbia, Canada. It is located on the shores of Kaien Island and is surrounded by mountains and the shimmering waters of the Pacific Ocean. Its location at the mouth of the Skeena River has made it a vital hub for trade and transportation since its founding in 1909.
Prince Rupert is located on the traditional lands of the Tsimshian (shim SHEE in) First Nations, who have lived in the area for thousands of generations. Prince Rupert's settler history is intertwined with the region's exploration and development. Initially named Port Essington, the town was originally a Grand Trunk Pacific Railway supply base. The city's growth was further fueled by the discovery of gold and other natural resources in the surrounding area.
Prince Rupert boasts a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural diversity, and outdoor adventure opportunities. The city is a gateway to the stunning landscapes of the Great Bear Rainforest and the remote wilderness of Haida Gwaii. Visitors can embark on whale-watching tours, explore pristine hiking trails, or kayak through serene fjords. Prince Rupert also offers a vibrant arts scene, with local galleries showcasing the works of talented artists and musicians. But what can be discovered in less than 24 hours?
Getting to Prince Rupert
As a major northern city, Prince Rupert offers several transportation options. Visitors can fly in from Vancouver or Kamloops, with multiple daily flights available through WestJet and Air Canada. Prices vary depending on the season and specific airline, but one-way fares generally range between $150 and $250. Forty-five-minute flights are also available from Prince George, with a typical one-way fare of about $100-$150.
BC Bus North offers a slightly less expensive alternative, with twice-weekly routes for under $100. These bus routes take between 8 and 10 hours, but the highway offers stunning views of mountains, lakes, and forests.
Railroad fans might want to consider the Via Rail service between Prince George and Prince Rupert. International visitors should be aware that passenger rail travel in Western Canada is not prioritized on the lines, so the journey will take between 12 and 14 hours. Expect to pay between $90 - $170 one-way. Via Rail offers three scheduled routes per week, year-round.
Roadtrippers travelling from Prince George will follow the scenic Yellowhead Highway (BC16) for approximately 750 kilometres (466 miles). A straight drive without stops will take approximately 8 hours. If you have time to spare, make a point to stop in Smithers, New Hazelton, and Terrace. I sugges an overnight stop in New Hazelton, at the K'san RV Campground for those travelling between May and September.
Terrace, British Columbia
I strongly recommend that visitors book their flights, bus or train tickets well in advance, especially during peak travel season, to ensure availability and best prices.
Camping Accommodations
Camping options in the Prince Rupert area are somewhat limited, especially during peak season. The campground closest to the ferry terminal, Prince Rupert RV Campground, is often criticized by locals for its subpar facilities. Many locals recommend avoiding this campground altogether.
If you're just looking for a place to park overnight, consider street parking near the ferry terminal. While this is not a designated camping area, it can be a viable option for those on a tight budget. However, availability can be limited, especially during peak season.
Another option is overnight parking at the ferry terminal itself. However, this is only available for those travelling to Port Hardy on Vancouver Island, not those heading to Haida Gwaii.
For a more enjoyable camping experience, I recommend Kinnikinnick Campground in nearby Port Edward, which offers campsites and cabins. This campground offers beautiful facilities, including power, water, coin laundry, free showers, and an on-site freezer for fishers. The owners are incredibly friendly and accommodating, making you feel at home. The rates are reasonable, especially considering the excellent amenities and peaceful surroundings. This is a popular campground, so make sure to book in advance. We managed to get a site without pre-booking, but it was the last spot available and was a site that was rarely rented out.
Things to do in Prince Rupert
The Museum of Northern British Columbia
The Museum of Northern British Columbia (MNBC) is a wonderful museum situated on the waterfront. Designed like a traditional First Nations longhouse, it offers breathtaking views of the water and surrounding landscape.
The museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday, with varying hours throughout the year. Admission fees are reasonable ($10 for adults). The outstanding gift shop specializes in First Nations art, jewelry, books and gifts.
Upon entering the MNBC, visitors are greeted by a grand, awe-inspiring lobby. The soaring ceilings, adorned with intricate artwork, create a sense of grandeur and a hint of the exhibits within. The Main Gallery, meticulously organized and thoughtfully curated, showcases a diverse range of exhibits that delve into the rich history and culture of northern British Columbia. From the early Indigenous presence to the arrival of European settlers and the subsequent development of the region, the exhibits provide a comprehensive overview of the area's past.
One of the highlights of the MNBC is the Treasures Gallery, where visitors can marvel at a collection of exquisite artifacts and artwork. The gallery features stunning textiles, ceremonial objects, and historical documents that examine the lives and traditions of the region's Indigenous peoples. The Hall of Nations exhibit celebrates the cultural diversity of northern British Columbia. Through interactive displays and multimedia presentations, visitors can learn about the unique customs, languages, and stories of the various Indigenous nations that have inhabited the region for centuries.
The Monumental Gallery is simply stunning. This expansive space, featuring floor-to-ceiling windows offering panoramic views of the harbour, is home to temporary exhibits.
Wander Around Cow Bay
After exiting the Museum, walk along the waterfront to Cow Bay, a charming neighbourhood with its unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. Originally a logging camp in the early 20th century, Cow Bay has evolved into a vibrant community that retains its historic charm and offers food, drink, gift shops and galleries.
Today, Cow Bay is a popular destination for locals and visitors alike. The neighbourhood's streets are lined with colourful houses and cottages, many of which have been lovingly restored. Cow Bay is also known for its vibrant street art scene, with numerous murals and graffiti adorning the walls of buildings throughout the area.
Cow Bay offers a variety of interesting shops and boutiques. Visitors can browse through local art galleries, antique stores, and specialty shops that sell everything from handmade crafts to vintage clothing. Cow Bay is also home to a thriving farmers' market, where visitors can purchase fresh produce, local honey, and other artisanal goods.
One of the highlights of visiting Cow Bay is enjoying the stunning views of Prince Rupert Waterfront. The neighbourhood offers several vantage points to admire the harbour's beauty, including the waterfront walkway and the decks of local restaurants. For a truly unforgettable experience, head to Breaker's Pub and enjoy a delicious meal while taking in the breathtaking scenery.
Sitting on the deck of Breaker's Pub is like stepping into a postcard. As you sip on a refreshing beverage and savour the flavours of delicious fish tacos, you'll be treated to a spectacular view of Prince Rupert Harbour. Below you, seals playfully bob in the water. The afternoon spent enjoying the gentle lapping of the waves against the dock and the bustle of activity on the docks below is one of those perfect travel experiences that will linger in my memories.
Discover the Sunken Gardens
The Sunken Garden behind Prince Rupert City Hall is a peaceful oasis. The garden was created in the early 20th century as part of a beautification project to enhance the city's appearance. The design features terraced levels, each adorned with various colourful flowers, shrubs, and trees. The gardens are carefully maintained creating a serene and relaxing atmosphere.
The sunken gardens were once part of the Prince Rupert Exhibition grounds. In the early decades of the 20th century, the exhibition grounds hosted various events and activities, including agricultural shows and fairs. Today, visitors can admire blooming roses, fragrant lilacs, and towering evergreens. The gardens also provide a habitat for various bird species, which made my bird-nerd heart very happy.
Final Thoughts
My 24-hour adventure in Prince Rupert was a delightful surprise. I was initially skeptical about whether I could fit so much into such a short timeframe, but I quickly discovered that Prince Rupert is a city that offers a wealth of experiences, even for those with limited time.
From exploring the fascinating exhibits at the Museum of Northern British Columbia to wandering through the charming streets of Cow Bay and enjoying the stunning views from the sunken gardens, I was constantly impressed by the diversity and beauty of this coastal town. The friendly locals and welcoming atmosphere made me feel right at home.
If you ever find yourself with a day to spare before embarking on a journey to Haida Gwaii or simply looking for a unique destination to explore, I highly recommend spending some time in Prince Rupert. This charming city perfectly blends history, culture, and natural beauty, making it a truly unforgettable experience.
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