Inside Passage Adventure: A Coastal Journey With BC Ferries
Imagine cruising through a labyrinth of islands, fjords, and towering mountains. The crisp and clean air carries the scent of saltwater and pine. Whales breach the surface, sea lions bask on sun-drenched rocks, and bald eagles soar overhead. Welcome to the Inside Passage, one of the most breathtaking waterways on Earth.
And one of the best ways to experience this natural wonder? Aboard a BC Ferries vessel, where you'll see the same sights as those travelling on fancy cruises.
Table of Contents
What is The Inside Passage?
The Inside Passage is a scenic waterway winding its way along the coast of British Columbia, Canada. It's a network of sheltered waterways, fjords, and islands that stretches from the southern tip of Alaska to the northern tip of Vancouver Island. The route offers a chance to witness breathtaking natural beauty, encounter diverse marine wildlife, and experience the tranquillity of the British Columbia coast.
The Inside Passage is best experienced during the summer months when the weather is mild, the views are clear, and marine wildlife is abundant. However, the region's raw beauty and serene atmosphere uniquely appeal even in the off-season. Whether you're an avid nature lover or a history buff, the Inside Passage is beautiful.
Booking Your Inside Passage BC Ferries Adventure
Choosing Your Route
This route typically begins in Prince Rupert, British Columbia, or Port Hardy on Vancouver Island. It involves cruising through islands, fjords, and channels. The real magic, however, lies in the natural wonders that surround you. Keep your eyes peeled for marine life, such as leaping salmon, whales, dolphins, seals, and sea lions. You may even spot bald eagles soaring overhead or bears foraging along the shoreline.
Both routes include at least one stop: either in Bella Bella or Klemtu. These are short stops, if travelling the entire route. Alternatively, you may choose to disembark to spend a few days exploring these communities and the Great Bear Rainforest nearby. My route stopped in Bella Bella.
The journey is long—approximately 15 - 16 hours, possibly longer, depending upon the marine conditions. My sailing left Prince Rupert at 07:30 and arrived in Port Hardy just before midnight. You will want to reserve accommodations at your destination in advance.
Booking Your Ferry Ticket
You'll need to book your ferry ticket with BC Ferries for this adventure. The process is a breeze if you book a peak season trip early. If you are booking later, I recommend calling BC Ferries directly. I tried to reserve my spot about three months before my departure and found that my preferred dates were not available. After calling BC Ferries and speaking to a very helpful agent, I was placed on a waiting list for my dates. The agent assured me I would likely be confirmed since many travellers reserve in advance but change their plans before payment. Sure enough, I was confirmed within the month.
BC Ferries offers various senior, student, and resident discounts. Look for seasonal promotions and special offers.
Vehicle and Passenger Fees
The cost of your ferry ticket will depend on several factors, including the route, the type of vehicle, and the number of passengers. BC Ferries offers a variety of fare options to suit different needs. It's best to check their website or mobile app for the most accurate and up-to-date pricing information.
My overheight campervan, two passengers, fuel surcharges (taxes) and lounge seats cost $945. Regular-size vehicles, off-peak travel, and choosing regular seating will result in some savings. Cabins are available, at an additional cost, for travellers who wish to take a nap or a shower. My travel buddy and I felt we didn't need a cabin on this route, as we had a cabin on the overnight ferry from Haida Gwaii and wanted to enjoy the scenery along the way.
Vehicle Loading in Prince Rupert
The Inside Passage ferry journey from Prince Rupert offers a unique and scenic way to travel. However, the loading process can seem daunting, especially for first-time travellers.
Arriving early is highly recommended, especially if you're coming from other locations on the mainland. The BC Ferries website states that travellers must check in 90 minutes before departure, but the gates didn't open until an hour before departure.
Check out my post on Things to do in Prince Rupert the day before your departure to make the most of your wait. For those travelling from Haida Gwaii, consider taking the overnight ferry from Skidegate to connect with the Inside Passage route in the morning.
The loading process is much simpler if you're coming from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert. For tips on exploring Port Hardy before your departure, check out my post on Port Hardy here.
The Loading Process
Unlike some ferry routes, the Inside Passage from Prince Rupert to Port Hardy includes stops in smaller communities. This means loading the car decks can be more complex than single-destination routes.
Here's where things get interesting – for vehicles travelling the entire route, you'll be directed to reverse onto the car deck. Let's be honest, this can be a bit nerve-wracking! But fear not; the experienced crew at BC Ferries will guide you through the process. They're absolute pros at this, and they'll even happily drive your vehicle onto the deck if you prefer. So, take a deep breath, relax, and let the experts handle it.
Onboard Amenities
The ferries on this route offer cabins, lounges, dining options, play and pet areas, plus a gift/souvenir shop. There is no cell connection or WIFI onboard except during the first 1/2 hour and the short stop at Bella Bella. Bring a book or pick one up in the onboard shop. You could also download podcasts or movies to view while you are sailing.
Cabin Accommodations
While BC Ferries offers a variety of cabin options to suit different preferences. While more affordable, inside cabins do not have windows. They are perfect for those who want a quiet, dark environment to sleep. On the other hand, outside cabins offer views of the surrounding landscapes.
All cabins, regardless of type, come equipped with four bunk-style beds, a private bathroom with a shower, a desk, and a closet.
Lounges and Cafés
BC Ferries offers a range of dining and seating options. You'll find what you're looking for from casual cafes to comfortable lounges.
The Aurora Lounge
The Aurora Lounge is at the front of the ferry and provides the best Passage view during peak season. The chairs are oversized, with reclining leather seats and side tables. Access to the lounge is via a key card picked up from the Purser onboard.
The Raven Lounge
The Raven Lounge is included in your fare and features flat-screen TVs. On most journeys, these TVs show movies. Show times are listed on a board near the Purser's Office on the 4th deck. We were travelling during the Olympics, and the screens showed various (pre-recorded) events throughout the day.
Other Seating Options
Plenty of comfortable inside seating along each side of the ferry is included in your fare. These seating areas also include large windows looking out onto the Passage and do not require additional fees if you want to save money. The downside of these areas is that you will only be viewing one side of the Passage.
There is also deck seating for travellers who want to enjoy the fresh air and unobstructed views. Some areas are sheltered from the wind and include tables, while others are more open.
The Canoe Café
The Canoe Cafe is a cafe-style restaurant serving fresh food for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It even includes a selection of beer, cider, and wine. The prices are somewhat elevated but not excessively so. The daily specials change between the lunch and dinner menus.
Vista Restaurant
The Vista restaurant is a more upscale buffet dining option unavailable on our journey but may be available on select sailings from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert. The BC Ferries buffets were closed during the Covid shutdowns and have not (yet) been re-opened. The buffet typically included a wide selection of hot and cold options, a salad bar, and an extensive dessert selection.
Children's Play Area
Families will appreciate the play areas provided for children. The play areas include TVs showing cartoons, play equipment, and a small area for arcade games.
Pet Areas
Pets are not allowed above the vehicle decks but there will be regular announcements opening the decks for owners to let their animals out for short walks and to take care of their needs. Look for the designated pet areas and keep your pet on a lead.
Passages Gift Shop
If you're looking for souvenirs or last-minute essentials, browse the Passages Gift Shop, which offers a range of products, including clothing, snacks, beverages, and local crafts.
The Stunning Sights of the Inside Passage
The Inside Passage is a natural wonderland with diverse ecosystems and abundant wildlife. As you cruise through this stunning waterway, you'll be treated to breathtaking views of towering mountain peaks, deep fjords, and islands.
The Inside Passage is a haven for marine life. Keep your eyes peeled for whales, dolphins, seals, and sea lions. The captain will announce when whales are spotted, so listen for these exciting updates. We were fortunate to witness humpback whales, orcas, and a playful pod of dolphins that followed our ferry for about 15 minutes. While watching the whales in the distance was thrilling, they were not close enough for decent photos, so I put down the camera picked up my binoculars and enjoyed the show.
With few communities along the way, the Inside Passage offers a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the tranquillity of nature. The pristine wilderness and the abundance of wildlife make this journey unforgettable.
Featured Sights Along the Way
Once onboard, look for signs in each lounge area describing the notable sights along the way. Don't worry about keeping track of sailing time, as announcements will be made as the ferry passes, including details about the history, things to spot, and other exciting information. Sadly, most of the communities that used to be situated in the Inside Passage are now ghost towns, closed when industrial changes and world markets shifted in the later years of the 20th Century.
Grenville Channel (4 hours from Prince Rupert/11 hours from Port Hardy)
The Grenville Channel is considered the most spectacular channel along the route. The narrowest portion is only 427 m (1400 ft) wide, with tall peaks rising from the water on each side. As you cruise through, look to the shoreline for signs of whales blowing. Using my binoculars, I could spot a bear and some sea lions.
Butedale (10 hrs from Prince Rupert/5 hrs from Port Hardy)
Butedale is a former settlement on Princess Royal Island, the largest island in the Passage. It was established in 1918 as a fishing, mining, and logging area and included a cannery and fish reduction plant. Before the cannery and plant closed in the 1960s, the peak summer population was about 400. Today, it is a ghost town with decaying buildings and a waterfall visible from the ferry.
Swanson Bay (9.5 hours from Prince Rupert/5.5 hrs from Port Hardy)
Swanson Bay is another abandoned town that was once home to a pulp mill that closed during the 1930s. The only sights seen from the ferry are a brick chimney and pilings.
Boat Bluff (7.5 hours from both)
With its still-staffed scenic lighthouse at the southern end of Sarah Island, Boat Bluff offered the most to see from the ferry. The lighthouse and associated buildings are recognized as Canadian Heritage structures. The lighthouse keepers are the only residents on the island.
Bella Bella (10hrs from Prince Rupert/5 hours from Port Hardy)
Our route stopped briefly in Bella Bella (aka Waglisla), a prosperous fishing and logging community with a hospital, school, cultural centre and one of the largest First Nations communities on the coast. Travellers wanting to explore the Great Bear Rainforest or immerse themselves in Heiltsuk culture may choose to disembark here for further adventures. Since we were carrying on to Port Hardy, we enjoyed watching the activity at the dock and looking into the town.
Namu (11.5 from Prince Rupert/3.5 hrs from Port Hardy)
Namu is a small First Nations village named for the word meaning 'whirlwind'. These 'willy-waws' blow intensely during the fall months. Namu was the first cannery settlement on the coast but suffered following the 1970 cannery closure, leaving it almost entirely abandoned. Artifacts dating back more than 10,000 years have been found in the area. Unfortunately, my photos of Namu were all terrible, so you'll just have to do the trip yourself! Some readers may be familiar with the film Namu the Killer Whale, which tells the story of the orca captured in this area.
During the final hour or so of the journey, the ferry moves further away from the coast as it heads east to the northern tip of Vancouver Island, the community of Port Hardy. This part of the journey will be mainly in the dark, with views of shorelines turning into skyscapes of stars.
Final Thoughts
The Inside Passage aboard a BC Ferry offers a unique opportunity to disconnect from the hustle and bustle of everyday life for a day full of breathtaking scenery, wildlife spotting, and fresh, clean marine breezes. I will take this route again, not only for the relaxing journey, scenery, and wildlife but also because of the practicality of reducing the wear and tear on my vehicle in getting to the northern communities of British Columbia. I would stop in Bella Bella or Klemtu for a few days on a future trip to explore the Great Bear Rainforest.
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What a great guide to the Inside Passage journey. I've never been on a cruise so maybe I should do the BC Ferries trip to start, it looks like you get the best part of it anyway. Good call with the Aurora lounge, those seats look really comfortable. Even the regular seats look more spaced out that usual BC Ferries seats
Congratulations on the extremely comprehensive and well-written guide.
Both the inside and outside of the ferry are very welcoming, as are the rooms, giving a feeling of comfort and convenience.
What captivated me the most were undoubtedly the breathtaking views along the entire route. Nature and wildlife in all its splendor!
Although I'm not a cruise person or anything like that, I can see myself embarking on a trip on the BC Ferry and enjoying every moment on board.
It's not just a ferry crossing but feels like a mini cruise. The landscape is breath-taking and magical, one has to make sure to do this trip during a season with clear and stable weather conditions. I like that the ferry included some amenities to keep passengers occupied and the Aurora Lounge is a great spot. The other seating areas seem comfortable and generous, too, I would probably not need a cabin. Thank god it doesn't have a karaoke bar!
Carolin | <a href="https://solotravelstory.com/">Solo Travel Story</a>
I have never been a fan of taking extended cruises but I know that this is the best way to experience certain places. This sounds like another one !
That’s a great tip to call the company. I never do that once I see that something isn’t available on-line. I think I would enjoy watching the loading process but would probably let the staff park any rental car I would be using.
The seats in the Aurora lounge look great and probably comfortable enough to have a few hours sleep in.
All your photographs of the views are quite breathtaking. I particularly loved the one of the dolphins.
I wonder are the residents of the lighthouse on Boat Bluff long…
I'm a big fan of ferries and boat travel. I can't believe it took me so long to do this trip as it has been on my list for at least a decade or two! This ferry suits me much better than a fancy cruise. I will definitely travel this route again!