Haida Gwaii Travel Guide: Exploring Skidegate
Imagine an untouched world, a place where ancient forests meet pristine waters, where the spirits of the past linger, and the future of Indigenous culture thrives. Welcome to Haida Gwaii, an archipelago off the coast of British Columbia. Come meander with me as I discover Skidegate, the first community road trip travellers encounter upon arriving in Haida Gwaii.
Table of Contents
Overview of Haida Gwaii
Haida Gwaii, literally translated to 'Islands of the Haida' is a stunning archipelago off the coast of British Columbia, Canada. Its unparalleled natural beauty and rich cultural heritage make it a sanctuary for nature and culture.
Historically, Haida Gwaii is the ancestral home of the Haida people, renowned for their intricate art, complex social structure, and maritime prowess. Their legacy can be seen in the numerous archaeological sites, totem poles, and traditional villages that dot the islands.
Today, Haida culture continues to thrive. The Haida people actively preserve their traditions, language, and art. Visitors to Haida Gwaii can experience this rich cultural heritage through various opportunities, including guided tours, cultural events, and interactions with local artisans.
Why Visit Haida Gwaii?
Haida Gwaii offers a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural immersion, and outdoor adventure. Travellers who seek to spend time in lush rainforests with towering cedars, walk along pristine beaches on rugged coastlines are drawn to the islands. Likewise, those seeking a deeper understanding and connection to First Nations' culture and the Haida Nation can visit historic sites with traditional buildings, intricate totem poles and learn about the various art forms. The outdoor adventurer will value the opportunities to kayak, hike, and watch wildlife.
There is no major metropolitan centre on Haida Gwaii. All towns are small. Most businesses are family-owned operations. Art Galleries are often part of residential homes. There is no hustle and bustle. Life moves without haste. Most residents live less by the clock and more by the seasons. The locals we met were welcoming and eager to share their stories, recommendations, and insights.
Getting to Haida Gwaii
Haida Gwaii is a remote destination that requires planning effort. There is an airport close to Skidegate, with flights from some major metropolitan areas of British Columbia. This blog assumes a road trip that requires an 8 - 9-hour ferry ride from Prince Rupert. (see my post on spending a day in Prince Rupert here).
I discussed routes and public transportation options in more detail in last week's post "Planning a Visit to Haida Gwaii: What to Know Before You Go." Please follow the link for that information.
The Haida People
Haida Gwaii is sacred to the Haida people. I use the word sacred very deliberately. Haida culture connects the Haida and the land, ocean, sky, creatures, and supernatural spirits. Reincarnation, where souls cycle through different forms, is a central tenet of Haida beliefs, emphasizing the interconnectedness of all living things. Dreams are viewed as a means of communication with the spirit world and a source of knowledge and guidance.
The Haida people have a complex relationship with tourism. The economic benefits for local businesses and heritage sites create jobs, support families, and stimulate the economy; the opportunity to share the Haida culture helps to preserve Haida traditions and language and increases awareness of the importance of protecting Haida land and resources.
Overtourism is a concern. Too many visitors can strain local resources or cause environmental harm. There are also concerns that visitors may not be respectful of Haida culture or sacred sites. There are sites where visitors are forbidden or may only visit with a local guide.
Visitors are encouraged to sign the Haida Gwaii Pledge before arrival. The pledge is a commitment to respect the land, culture, and people of Haida Gwaii. It encourages responsible tourism practices, such as minimizing environmental impact, respecting cultural traditions, and supporting local businesses. By signing the pledge, visitors agree to uphold these principles and contribute to preserving this unique and fragile ecosystem. You can learn more and take the pledge here.
Skidegate Village, Haida Gwaii
Haida Gwaii includes more than 150 islands. The two largest are Moresby Island in the south and Graham Island in the north. The ferry terminal where visitors arrive is on Graham Island, south of the community of Skidegate. The ferry arrives in the late afternoon/early evening.
Accommodations
There is very limited choice for accommodations in the Skidegate area outside of a modest motel or B&B. As I travelled in my campervan, I was looking for campsites. While doing my research, I learned that the closest campground was a first-come-first-serve site, and reservations were not possible. The decision was made to head directly there after landing.
Haydn Turner Campground Review
🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ Location: This small campground is on a point of land surrounded on three sides by water. It's close to the ferry terminal.
🏕️ 🏕️ Amenities: Picnic tables, firepits, potable water and pit toilets are available. Fees are $15 (beach) or $20 (drive-in) cash. The sign says fees are collected in the evening, but we were not visited and left our fee in the self-registration box.
🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ Campsites: There are eight drive-in sites and two walk-in beach sites. Most sites are double sites. The forested sites are large and level.
🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️Nearby Activities/Services: There are marked trails leading to the beach and the community cemetery. Cemeteries are not everyone's cup of tea, but I like them. The traditional memorials often include depictions of local wildlife.
🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️Noise Levels This was a very quiet campground, allowing us to truly enjoy the sounds of the eagles, woodpeckers, kingfishers and songbirds living in the trees around the campground.
Cautions:
The pit toilets were disgustingly filthy. Luckily, I have my own, clean option in my van.
Haida Gwaii is a damp climate much loved by mosquitoes. If there is no wind, the mosquitoes are thick. Bring and use a good quality insect repellent.0
Things to Do in Skidegate
Over the next few weeks, I will share posts about different areas to explore on Graham Island. Today's post focuses on Skidegate, with future posts about visiting Tlell, Masset, Port Clements, and Naikoon Provincial Park. To ensure you don't miss these posts, use the login/register button at the top of the page to subscribe and get notifications when new posts are added.
Haida Heritage Centre
The Haida Heritage Centre is a great source of pride and information and should be one of every visitor's first stops after arrival. This stunning building, built on the water's edge in a traditional long house style, includes artifacts, art exhibits, both historical and modern, workshops, and guided tours.
The exhibits showcase the rich heritage of the Haida people. Visitors can explore exhibits that delve into Haida mythology, art, and history, including stunning totem poles, intricately carved masks, and traditional clothing. I appreciated learning more about the symbols and related stories, which helped me know what to look for when viewing totems and memorial poles.
Traditional travel was often by boat, meaning homes and villages were designed to display their "best side" from the water. Visitors are encouraged to walk outside to view the centre from the waterside to appreciate the surroundings, building design and examples of totem poles
One of the outdoor exhibit areas features traditional canoe carving. Elder carvers teach youth traditional carving techniques and stories, many of which were lost during the years when the colonial government attempted to assimilate the native populations by outlawing First Nations traditions. Local guides share technical and cultural carving information on guided tours with lively stories of local carvers and canoe journeys.
A temporary fashion exhibit created by well-known Haida designers was featured during my visit. I was previously familiar with designer Dorothy Grant and own a couple of her pieces, so I enjoyed being introduced to new designers.
Balance Rock
During the ferry journey from Prince Rupert, we chatted with a Haida couple who lived in Tlell who recommended that we see Balance Rock. Balance Rock is one of the most mysterious and photographed sights on Graham Island. To find it, follow a narrow gravel path indicated by a small sign on the side of the Yellowhead Highway.
The huge boulder may appear to be balanced precariously on its tip, but it is very stable. The rock was deposited here due to glacial retreat and settled in place with the centre of gravity directly above the contact point.
Although this is a remarkable natural landmark, few legends are told about Balance Rock. It was likely lost during a smallpox epidemic that wiped out 90 percent of the local population centuries ago. The couple we met on the ferry shared the story of a local miner who tried to dynamite the rock in the early 1900s and was stopped by locals.
Spirit Lake Trail
The Spirit Lake Trail is a good hike in this part of Haida Gwaii. The trail starts from a gravel parking lot off the Yellowhead Highway. It is marked with a large carved trail gate, located behind a covered picnic area lined with interpretive signs describing the trail, the plants and animals in the area, and the legend of Waasguu written in Haida, English, and the Skidegate dialect.
The trail is well-maintained but can be muddy. There is a gentle grade but there are a couple of short steep sections. Sturdy footwear is suggested. The trail winds beneath tall cedars to the edge of Spirit Lake and a perfect location for a picnic lunch.
Walk and Wander
Skidegate village is primarily a residential area with few tourist services. While visitors are welcome to walk along the street and community park, remember to respect the privacy of local residents. The local cemetery is not open to non-Haida visitors.
The homes are small, and several display carvings and art as part of their identification and decor. The park attracts local children and families.
Notable in the park is Chief Wigaanad's totem, which was raised in 2011. This was the first chief's pole carved and raised in Haida Gwaii in a hundred years and is seen as a symbol of the Haida people celebrating the reclamation of Haida culture and traditions almost lost.
Final Thoughts
Haida Gwaii leaves a lasting impression. Its pristine natural beauty, rich cultural heritage, and warm, welcoming people make it a truly unforgettable destination. Whether you're seeking adventure, cultural immersion, or simply a peaceful retreat, Haida Gwaii has something to offer everyone.
As you plan your visit, remember to respect the land, culture, and people of Haida Gwaii. By following the Haida Gwaii Pledge and practicing responsible tourism, you can help ensure the preservation of this precious place for generations to come.
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What a cool place to visit. I know it's pretty remote, but it really does have it all. I'd love to learn more about the First Nations and it seems like the culture is still thriving (which is something that is definitely lacking in the USA). I'm glad they're actively working to maintain a balance of tourism and preservation - something that is NOT easily accomplished today.
I remember from your previous post that a trip to Haida Gwaii requires some time and efforts since it is such a remote place. I am pleased to return virtually with you and learning more about the region. From your descriptions it feels very similar to the Aboriginal Tribes in Australia. They too, are protective of their lands and certain sites cannot be visited, not even photographed in fear of Social Media may reveal their secrets and tarnishes their heritage. The community of Haida Gwaii is absolutely right in demanding a pledge to safe their heritage, but I hope since this destination is more for an advanced traveller anyway, this won't be much of an issue.
Carolin | <a href="https://solotravelstory.com/">Solo…
Based on your photos, I can see why overtourism is a concern. It's a gorgeous place, but I agree there has to be a balance to allow for tourism but not to the point where it detracts. The pledge is a nice touch, but I feel like it's a matter of manners when you're visiting somewhere, and if the locals take it seriously, you probably should too. As i'm a magnet for museums, i'd probably check out the Haida Heritage Centre first to learn about the culture and the history, and it sounds like it was quite detailed.
Red Solo Traveler (www.redsolotraveler.com)
Reading about your journey in Skidegate, Haida Gwaii really piqued my interest! Your descriptions of the local Haida culture and the stunning coastal scenery make it sound like a truly special place. I especially appreciate the tips about visiting the museums and art galleries. Thanks for sharing your experience. :)
I am delighted to read another post from you about this area. I travelled quite a lot in the US to Native American reservations but I haven’t been to a First Nations site in Canada.
This sounds just like my perfect place to visit - outdoor walks in lush countryside, listening to the birds and the opportunity to learn some history about an unique place.
I love the idea of the pledge and hope it does encourage people to be respectful of the people, landscape etc
I, like you, do visit cemeteries as I think they provide a great insight into the local area. I also like seeing the different headstones and memorials. The bear memorial you displayed is beautiful.