Haida Gwaii Travel Guide: Exploring Masset and Old Masset
In Haida Gwaii, ancient cedars whisper secrets to the wind, and vibrant artwork spills out of cozy studios onto roughly paved streets. The captivating reality of Haida Gwaii, a remote archipelago off the coast of British Columbia, is where the wild beauty of nature collides with the rich spirit of Haida culture. Intrigued? Prepare to discover the northern communities of Masset and Old Masset, two distinct yet intertwined communities.
I've already delved into planning a magical Haida Gwaii adventure and explored the vibrant Skidegate area. The planning post covers the nitty-gritty details of how to get to Haida Gwaii, and the information potential visitors need to know before visiting these misty islands. The Skidegate post covers things to see and do in Skidegate, where the ferry arrives on Graham Island, the most developed island in the archipelago.
My summer road trip to Haida Gwaii was seven days of stunning nature, breathtaking art, and being surrounded by the profoundly spiritual culture of the Haida people. This northern area was my favourite to explore. Come meander with me to discover why.
Table of Contents
Historical and Cultural Background
Before European contact, the Haida Nation thrived, with numerous villages dotting the islands. However, the arrival of European settlers in the 18th century brought significant changes. Diseases introduced by Europeans decimated the Haida population, disrupting their traditional way of life.
Masset, known initially as Ninstints, emerged as a significant settlement in the late 19th century. It was a hub for the Hudson's Bay Company trading post established there. The company's influence led to the construction of a sawmill and other infrastructure.
Masset's military history is primarily tied to its role in communications and surveillance during the Cold War. The base significantly impacted the local economy and population, leading to increased infrastructure development and job opportunities. However, as the Cold War ended, the strategic importance of CFS Masset diminished. The base eventually closed down, but reminders of it remain.
On the other hand, Old Masset has a more historical and cultural significance. It is one of the few remaining traditional Haida villages, preserving the architectural and artistic legacy of the Haida people. The village has experienced periods of decline and resurgence but remains a vital center for Haida culture and identity.
In recent decades, both Masset and Old Masset have undergone significant transformations. The Haida Nation has asserted its rights and worked to revitalize its culture and language. The tourism industry has also contributed to the development of these communities, bringing visitors from around the world.
Introducing Masset and Old Masset in Haida Gwaii
While Masset and Old Masset are geographically close, they offer distinct experiences. Masset, a modern town, serves as the gateway to the northern part of Haida Gwaii. It's a hub with essential amenities like grocery stores, gas stations, restaurants, shops, and a visitor center, making it a convenient base for exploring the surrounding areas.
However, for those seeking a more authentic cultural immersion, Old Masset is the place to be. This historic Haida village is steeped in tradition and artistry. Its serene atmosphere, traditional houses, and vibrant art scene offer a glimpse into the rich heritage of the Haida people.
Accommodations in Masset and Old Masset
Given the size of the communities, it should not be surprising to learn that there is not a lot of choice for accommodations. Most accommodations are small but comfortable guesthouses with splendid waterfront views. The best site to explore your options is the Go Haida Gwaii tourism site.
Hidden Island RV and Campground Review
I stayed in campgrounds since I was on a road trip in my campervan. The only full-service campground on Graham Island is located in Masset. On my travels, I chose the Hidden Island RV and Campground twice to take advantage of the services offered.
🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ Location
Hidden Island is on Tow Hill Road, a minute or two from Masset's centre and the Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary. Naikoon Provincial Park, a short drive from the campground, has incredible beaches, kilometres of hiking trails, and stunning landscapes.
🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️Amenities
As previously mentioned, this is the only full-service RV Campground on the island. Services include 15/30 amp power, hot showers, coin laundry, free WIFi (only next to the office), and a shop with fishing and marine equipment, tackle, gifts, and camping supplies. Freshly baked bread from a local baker was brought in daily. Those hot showers were deeply appreciated since the weather was damp and chilly most days. Fishing and crabbing advice is freely and expansively shared.
🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ Campsites
The sites were grassy and could be muddy in wet conditions, but they were generally private, level, and deep enough to accommodate bigger RVs or family-style group camping. During one of our stays, a children's scouting group set up camp on the grassy area behind the office. Native fruit bushes with salmonberries, cloudberries and huckleberries surrounded the sites and were sweet additions to my breakfast and snacks.
🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ Nearby Activities/Services
I appreciated being close to the town to pick up various supplies and to enjoy a meal cooked by someone else. The Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary is within walking distance and was one of the highlights of my explorations in the area.
🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️Noise Levels
The deep forested sites muffled sounds from other campers, including the very enthusiastic scouting group tenting across from one of the sites I occupied. During my stays, campers tended to be settled in for the night early with more bustle in the early mornings.
Exploring Masset
Outside of Haida Gwaii, Masset would more likely be called a village. The entire town can be walked around in less than half an hour. Virtually all the shops, services, and restaurants are within a few blocks clustered near the harbour. Its origins, which focus on logging, fishing, and military operations, are clear.
During my visit, our time in the town was fleeting. We prepared most of our meals and spent our days exploring the surrounding area. Shopping was not a priority, and the museum was very small. Dedicated tourist shops with souvenirs can't be found; instead, these items will be part of the offerings in the coffee shops and restaurants.
Don't be surprised to find opening hours for smaller shops and restaurants unpredictable. Weekday closures and short hours are common.
Restaurants
Daddy Cool's Public House is a pub and dining room located on Main Street. We were looking for a place to enjoy a sit-down lunch and after walking around the town, decided to try out the dining room. The dining room is small and is decorated with a mixture of native and rock band decor (Daddy Cool is a former '70s rock musician) with a diner vibe. I ordered their daily special: a shrimp BLT sandwich that exceeded my expectations in portion size and delicious taste. My friend ordered the fish and chips and declared them some of the best she had ever tasted. Most items on the menu were priced around the $20 point, which is quite reasonable for the islands.
626 Fish & Chipper is an unassuming food truck with an attached pizza restaurant on Main Street across from the Co-op. This family-run restaurant is so much more than a place to order food. It is a whole experience, from the charming staff to the beautiful display of Haida art and generous portions of incredibly tasty food. During the day, it attracts people looking for a quick meal, and in the evenings, it becomes a place to hang out and enjoy an adult beverage or two. We enjoyed authentic Italian pizza and fresh, locally-caught halibut burgers. Prices range from $10 - $25. They are not open on Tuesday, Wednesday, or Sunday
Ground Gallery and Coffee Shop is a cozy and welcoming experience, located on Main Street. You'll be attracted by the stunning mural painted on the outside of the charming building and welcomed by smiling staff. This is a great place to grab a coffee and treat to enjoy while checking out the art and souvenirs displayed.
Things to do in Masset
The Visitor Centre is tiny and underwhelming. There was little information available beyond the same brochures we had picked up on the ferry. The single staff member was a summer employee and did not seem well-informed about local treasures that weren't in the brochures. We found the locals in the shops and restaurants were a much more valuable source of information.
Housed in the former hospital, this small museum is dedicated mainly to the settler history of the area, focussing on the commercial fishing industry in Northern Haida Gwaii. Permanent exhibits highlight the former whaling, fish canning and boat-building industries introduced by settler families. It will take visitors less than an hour to see all the exhibits. The museum is open seasonally. Admission is by donation. Posted hours are 12:00 - 16:00 daily, but this schedule seems somewhat flexible.
It was interesting to see this museum if only because it was clearly created to highlight settler history and was the only place we visited in Haida Gwaii with this perspective.
The Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary is a 290-hectare intertidal wetland and a crucial stopover point for migratory birds on the Pacific Flyway.
I thoroughly enjoyed exploring the sanctuary's tranquil trails, observing birds from viewing platforms, and the stunning coastal scenery. The Delkatla Nature Centre provides valuable information about the sanctuary's ecology and the importance of conservation efforts. Guided bird walks and educational programs are also offered, but I explored independently.
Exploring Old Masset
The highlights for visitors to Old Masset are the opportunities to see Haida artists and craftspeople in their studios and workshops, walk along the rocky shores of Dixon Entrance, watch the large eagle population, and visit the Old Masset Cemetery.
Art Galleries
Many artists operate from small studios in their homes. The impressive and re-emerging Haida culture has made Masset a centre for world-renowned art, which includes intricate carvings, beautiful woven textiles, and captivating paintings.
Sarah's Haida Arts & Jewellery is probably the village's most visited studio and features multiple local artists' work in Sarah's home constructed in the traditional longhouse style, complete with memorial pole. The two-room gallery area is absolutely crammed with books, art, recordings and clothing available for sale. Visitors will be able to find inexpensive souvenirs alongside collector pieces. Tour groups that include Sarah's on their itineraries will be treated to specially-arranged workshops or carving demonstrations.
April's White Raven House is the home and studio of April White (and is also a guesthouse for those looking for accommodations in Old Masset). April greeted us warmly at her front door and guided us through her living room studio, where we were delighted by her paintings. She offers original paintings, prints, and greeting cards. The views from her full-length windows onto the water are spectacular, and she told us of the whales that often pass by as she works. I'm not sure I would get a lot of work completed in such a setting!
Gin Kuyaas Haida Art is a newer building constructed in the traditional longhouse style. It features the work of local Haida artists. The smell of cedar throughout adds to the experience. A wide range of local art and products is displayed. As we found with other galleries, the staff was welcoming, helpful, and happy to provide information on the artists, their techniques, and styles.
The Old Masset Cemetery
When we think of cemeteries, we think of places of mourning and remembrance. Although not everyone enjoys cemeteries, I feel they offer valuable insights into an area's culture and history.
The Old Masset Cemetery excels at honouring loved ones within their cultural context. The unique monuments, adorned with treasures like shells and agates, provide insight into the local culture and history of Haida Gwaii. The Haida people identify as members of the Eagle or Raven clans; this symbology is apparent.
Dixon Entrance Waterfront
Make sure to take time to walk along the beach in Old Masset. We were amazed at the number of bald eagles hunting or resting along the water, on perches added to power poles, and flying overhead.
As you walk along the road, enjoy the new buildings built in the traditional style.
Day Trip Adventure from Masset
Naikoon Provincial Park, located 10 km east of Masset, has hundreds of kilometers of trails, from short walks to multi-day back-country tours, including a fully developed boardwalk trail for those with mobility issues. Visitors can easily drive to Tow Hill and explore on a day trip, but I recommend spending at least a few nights exploring the area. True back-country hikers will want to look at the multi-day hikes available. Next week's post will be dedicated to exploring Tow Hill, so become a subscriber to be notified when it is published!
Final Thoughts
Haida Gwaii's northern communities of Masset and Old Masset offer a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural richness, and modern convenience. Whether you're seeking outdoor adventures, cultural immersion, or a peaceful retreat, there is something for everyone. As you explore the rugged coastline, witness the breathtaking art, and connect with the warm hospitality of the people, you'll discover a place that truly captures the spirit of the Haida Nation.
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This looks like a truly peaceful place. It's interesting to see the juxtaposition of Masset and Old Masset where Masset offers the modern amenities, and Old Masset offers the unique cultural village that can easily draw visitors from around the world. Whenever I travel, I do try to purchase from local artists and shops, even if it's something as simple as a postcard and my personal favorite - t-shirts! However, I can see why this is a great place to visit. Not just for the tranquility, but the gorgeous carvings and art that dots the landscape.
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You keep captivating my attention with your posts about Haida Gwaii !
Like you, I often visit cemeteries on my travels—they’re such a unique way to understand local culture. The Old Masset Cemetery seems so serene and natural, one of the most beautifully authentic cemeteries I’ve ever heard of.
Exploring both Masset and Old Masset is definitely on my wish list now. I found the history you shared so engaging, and Old Masset, in particular, sounds like a perfect place to immerse ourselves in Haida culture.
I’m especially drawn to the stunning woodcraft and the meaningful memorial poles.
The Wildlife Sanctuary also sounds like a gem. Walking the trails and spotting birds would be such a peaceful and enjoyable experience.
The fog on agate beach just makes it look so mysterious and wild, exactly how I expect remote areas of Haida Gwaii to feel like. While there's not much to "do" it's a place I'd be happy to explore. The local artwork would be great to check out, and the wildlife Sanctuary, well, I do love a Sanctuary with birds.
I knew nothing about the Haida Nation, so I have really enjoyed reading your series of posts. I would love to visit this area and see the historic sites. The opportunity to hike on some of the trails to see this beautiful countryside really appeals to me.
The range of food establishments is interesting and I’d love to see the mural on the coffee shop. I liked the idea you can purchase souvenirs in these places also. I was surprised that the Maritime Museum didn’t have a fixed entrance fee but that a donation system is in place. It seems like a very interesting place to visit. The wildlife sanctuary looks amazing, I would probably do a guided tour as…
I love places that are decorated like Daddy Cool's Public House. Taking in art in small doses like during a meal or street art like at Ground Gallery is my preferred way instead of a museum. It can get overwhelming and/or boring for me, so little bits are perfect! Exploring all of the totem poles would be really neat too.