Planning a Visit to Haida Gwaii: What You Need to Know Before You Go
Haida Gwaii, formerly known as the Queen Charlotte Islands, is a stunning archipelago located off the coast of British Columbia, Canada. With more than 150 islands, Haida Gwaii is renowned for its rugged beauty, ancient forests, and rich cultural heritage. The islands are home to the Haida people, whose presence dates back thousands of years. Their intricate art, including totem poles and house structures, is showcased throughout the archipelago, telling stories of their history, beliefs, and traditions.
Haida Gwaii offers a diverse range of outdoor activities for visitors. Hiking trails wind through lush rainforests, leading to hidden waterfalls and panoramic viewpoints. Kayaking and whale watching are popular activities, allowing visitors to explore the intricate network of fjords and inlets, and spot majestic marine creatures like humpback whales and orcas. Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, protects the pristine wilderness of Haida Gwaii, preserving its unique ecosystems and cultural heritage. Future posts will be dedicated to these activities, so please subscribe/become a site member to ensure you're notified when these are published over the next few weeks.
In 2024, the government of British Columbia and the Haida people reached a historic agreement recognizing the Haida ownership of the islands. Talks are ongoing with the federal government, but the Haida people hope an agreement will be formalized within the next two years. Visitors can expect to be immersed in Haida culture and traditions while surrounded by the spirits of land, sea, and animals that have called this island group home for tens of thousands of years.
Due to Haida Gwaii's remote location, careful planning is essential to ensure a comfortable visit. This post covers the important information you need to know before arriving.
Planning Your Trip to Haida Gwaii
Best Time to Visit
Summer (June to August) offers the most pleasant weather, with fewer crowds and easier activity access. Be aware that Haida Gwaii has a maritime climate that is wet but mild. Summer temperatures rarely exceed 16C but freezing temperatures are rare in the winter. Rain is frequent throughout the year. Plan to pack warm and waterproof clothing.
How much time do you need?
This will depend upon what excursions and tours you choose. Most areas on Graham Island (the northern island) can be accessed easily by road, however, explorations on Moresby Island require boat access and guides. Many of these tours are multi-day excursions from Skidegate or Sandspit on Graham Island and include visits to ancient Haida villages, hiking trails, and breathtaking scenery.
Exploring Haida Gwaii on a road trip typically requires 5-7 days. This allows you to comfortably visit the main attractions, experience the local culture, and enjoy the stunning natural scenery.
For a more in-depth experience, consider extending your trip to 10-14 days. This will give you more time to join tours to explore remote areas, engage in leisurely activities, and truly immerse yourself in the island's beauty.
Remember to factor in the ferry schedule, which will affect your overall itinerary. It's also recommended to book accommodations and activities in advance, especially during peak tourist seasons. My advice is to book your ferries first.
Getting To Haida Gwaii
There are daily flights from Vancouver, BC. Flights may be the best choice for those who plan to join tours during their visit.
Independent exploration of Haida Gwaii is challenging without access to a vehicle. Some public transportation is available on Graham Island, operating between the main communities, but it is limited. Vehicle rental companies are few and do not carry a large inventory. If you plan on renting a vehicle, making those arrangements on the mainland is best.
BC Ferries
Road trippers must take an 8-9-hour ferry ride from Prince Rupert. Before catching the ferry, check out my post on what to do in Prince Rupert. This is a popular route, and reservations are strongly recommended.
I tried to book my July journey in late March, but many routes were already fully reserved. Navigating the BC Ferries website to find available spots was challenging, so I phoned BC Ferries directly. The agent put me on a waiting list and assured me I was very likely to get my spot, as many travellers changed plans and would cancel their reservations. I was confirmed by the end of April. A nice touch was the handwritten note and beverage coupon that arrived in the mail a few weeks before departure,
My journey to Haida Gwaii left Prince Rupert at 10:30 a.m., but my only option for the return trip was an overnight route, leaving Skidegate at 22:00. I paid an additional fee for a cabin for the night journey. For an overheight vehicle with 2 passengers, I paid $258.s0. The return trip, including the cabin, cost $393.20. Travellers must check in no later than 90 minutes before departure. I chose the less expensive inside cabin as a window view on an overnight journey wasn't needed (or useful).
The cabins include four beds, a private bathroom, a shower, a closet, and a desk. My travel companion and I pushed the upper berths up and enjoyed a short (the wake-up call is 4:00) but comfortable night's sleep.
On board, travellers will find a cafe and a restaurant, several different lounges with comfortable seating, both inside and on deck, and a gift shop. To comply with safety regulations, staying in your vehicle is impossible. For travellers with pets, an announcement is made every couple of hours, allowing access for 15-minute periods.
Accommodations in Haida Gwaii
Limited options exist, ranging from resorts. eco-lodges, cozy B&Bs, and campgrounds. Book well in advance, especially during peak season. Most inns, hotels, and guesthouses are small and intimate, so booking in advance is recommended. For a complete listing of all that are available, visit the Haida Gwaii tourism website. My recommendations are listed below.
Resorts and Hotels
Although my visit did not include staying in resorts or hotels, I visited these and offer them as recommendations.
Haida House: Located in Tlaal, beside the Tlaal River, this upscale resort offers luxurious rooms, oceanside cabins, and fine dining.
The Last Resort: Situated in Daajing Giids, this beachfront resort features comfortable rooms, a restaurant, and easy access to the beach.
The Sea Raven Inn: Located in Daajing Giids, this is the largest accommodation in the area with 30 rooms. It is a charming inn with cozy rooms, a restaurant, and a convenient location.
April's White Raven Guesthouse: Located in Old Masset, this guesthouse and art gallery have incredible waterfront views of Masset Inlet where whale sightings are common. It is across the street from the Tluu Xaada Nee traditional longhouse and the White family carving shed, where carvers work on monumental poles. Guests can watch April at work in her studio and purchase artwork. April warmly welcomed us and gave us a delightful tour of her home and gallery.
Campgrounds
During my visit, I stayed in several different campgrounds and offer my reviews of each. While private campgrounds may accept card payments, all the public ones I used required cash payments.
The closest campground to the ferry terminal, this basic campground is good for an overnight stay. Reservations are unavailable, and sites fill up quickly following the ferry's arrival. It is surrounded by a rocky beach and has beautiful views over the water.
Fees are $15 per night (cash only). Potable water and pit toilets are available. However, the pit toilets were the worst I have ever experienced, so I was grateful to have my own in the van.
With two drive-in campgrounds, visitors can hike, take long beach walks, and enjoy stunning views. All sites are available year-round on a first-come-first-served basis. Fees are $18 per night (cash only). I stayed at the Agate Beach campground, which had clean pit toilets. There was some debate about water quality, with locals saying it was acceptable to drink despite signs saying otherwise. I would recommend ensuring you have a good supply of water on hand.
The sites are small with little privacy but the views of Alaska across Dixon Entrance (when the fog cleared) were breathtaking. From this campground, walking along the beach to Tow Hill and Rose Spit is possible. The warming cabin with a wood-burning stove was very popular during a particularly chilly rainstorm.
This is the only full-service campground I found during my visit. Located in Masset, it has power, potable water, hot showers, WIFI (near office only), coin laundry, and a small shop with some basic supplies, fishing tackle, and gifts. As the only full-service campground on Graham Island, it is very popular. To avoid disappointment, book in advance.
Sunset RV & Campground: Located in Port Clements, this small campsite has power, clean pit toilets, and potable water. Reservations can be made in the village office (closed on Mondays and Tuesdays). I enjoyed a comfortable stay here.
Groceries and Supplies
As with everything in Haida Gwaii, shops tend to be small, with limited choices. Prices are higher than on the mainland. I suggest visitors bring essential food items, especially those with dietary restrictions. During my visit in late July, I discovered that many smaller businesses, including restaurants and galleries, were closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
Staying Connected
Cellular service and free Wi-Fi availability on Haida Gwaii can be limited, especially in remote areas. Most major carriers have coverage in the main towns and populated areas. Some public places, such as cafés, hotels, and libraries offer free WiFi.
If connectivity is important to you, you must plan to spend more time in the towns. My portable Starlink system ensures I can connect wherever I want. I much appreciated it, as it allowed me to feel safe as I travelled in more remote areas.
The Haida Gwaii Pledge
The Haida people are deeply connected to their home and are dedicated to preserving the environment and traditions. While visitors are welcomed, the Haida request that all visitors commit to respecting the region's land, culture and people by signing the Haida Gwaii Pledge before arrival. The pledge can be found here.
Final Thoughts
Haida Gwaii's rugged beauty, ancient forests, and rich cultural heritage combine to create a captivating blend of natural wonder and historical significance. From exploring the ancient Haida villages to hiking through lush rainforests and kayaking through pristine waters, Haida Gwaii offers a diverse range of outdoor activities. The recent recognition of Haida ownership over the islands marks a significant milestone in the region's history, further strengthening the connection between visitors and the Haida people.
While Haida Gwaii is a remote destination, careful planning can ensure a comfortable and enjoyable visit. By understanding the best time to visit, transportation options, accommodations, and cultural considerations, you can fully immerse yourself in the beauty and history of this remarkable archipelago.
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