Camping and Whale Watching in Telegraph Cove, Vancouver Island
Vancouver Island has splendid scenery and many opportunities to get close to wildlife and nature while discovering charming small coastal communities. For many visitors, a chance to take a whale-watching tour tops their list of things to do. One of my favourite and frequent Vancouver Island road trip stops is Telegraph Cove, home to Prince of Whales Whale Watching. This past summer, I introduced a travel buddy to Telegraph Cove, where we stayed in the Forest Campground and enjoyed a truly spectacular excursion where we saw sea lions, orcas, dolphins, eagles, deer and many humpback whales. Whale watching in Telegraph Cove is an experience that should be on every traveller's itinerary.
I've written about Telegraph Cove in a previous post where I go into detail about the community and things to explore along the boardwalk. Today's post is an addition to that article, highlighting our experience on our whale-watching tour and reviewing the Forest Campground. Whether you visit for the day or hang around longer, Telegraph Cove will steal your heart and provide a true West Coast experience for all.
Table of Contents
Location and Getting to Telegraph Cove
Telegraph Cove is a small, seasonal (open May to October) community on the northeastern coast of Vancouver Island, approximately 4 hours north of the city of Nanaimo (nuh-NAI-mow). Most visitors will arrive on Vancouver Island via BC Ferries. From Vancouver, the routes arrive in Victoria and Nanaimo. If travelling from Northern BC, the Inside Passage route from Prince Rupert arrives in Port Hardy, less than an hour from Telegraph Cove. There is a large marina resort for those travelling the coast by boat. Another option is to fly into Port Hardy or Port McNeill via float plane from Vancouver and then arrange ground transportation. Float planes are great fun as they fly low enough to get excellent views of the Salish Sea and its beautiful islands and fjords. (Check out my post describing my flight between Vancouver and Victoria here)
No public transportation routes into Telegraph Cove exist, so you'll need a vehicle or arrange a day tour. If you enjoy camping, you may want to consider renting an RV or campervan for your explorations on the Island. Check out my post about renting in Metro Vancouver for some recommendations.
Camping at Telegraph Cove
Operations at Telegraph Cove are run by two companies: Telegraph Cove Marina & RV Park and Telegraph Cove Resort. Both offer guest rooms and camping options. The Marina's RV campground is considered the "sunny" campground with flat and open sites whereas the Resort's campground offers forested sites for both tents and RVs and self-catering cabins. I'm not a fan of most RV campgrounds, as I find that they don't provide much privacy or aesthetic pleasure, so I chose the Forest Campground operated by the resort.
The campground is an easy 1 km walk up the hill from the resort. There are over 100 serviced sites, a laundromat, showers, and a sani dump. There is also an open group camping area with a children's play area. There are several trails to explore, including the trailhead to the Blinkhorn Trail and a short trail leading to Bauza Cove, known to attract bears at sunrise and sunset.
Rates vary according to the services provided. We paid $50 per night for a site with water and 30amp power. The cellular connection is weak but available. Starlink connectivity is a challenge in forested sites due to the density of the tree cover.
Whale Watching in Telegraph Cove
Prince of Whales offers several different tours to suit your preferences. You could splurge on a private tour or join one of the more budget-friendly group tours. More adventurous souls may prefer to join a tour in a zodiac, or those who want a more comfortable experience can choose a tour aboard their larger boats. A full-day option would be to choose the option that splits your day between whale-watching and kayaking. Spontaneous travellers can usually book a tour upon arrival with multiple daily options, but to ensure your spot, it would be better to reserve ahead. We arrived in Telegraph Cove mid-morning and were able to book our tour for the early afternoon at their office at the far end of the boardwalk, next to the Whale Interpretive Centre.
Our tour cost each of us $183.75, including fees and taxes. Each boat includes a trained crew, including naturalists, who will also take photos shared with each participant. This was especially appreciated as I had forgotten to charge my "big" camera and extra battery! (I still can't believe I did that!) Complimentary hot beverages are also included.
Prince of Whales offers a guarantee that you will see whales. All the boat captains communicate with each other, ensuring everyone gets to enjoy their experience. In the rare circumstance that the beasts are uncooperative, you will be booked on another tour. Even on the warmest days, it can get cool on the water. I recommend wearing warmer clothing, including long trousers and a jacket or hoodie. A phone camera is not likely to be able to catch the photos you want. If you don't own a zoom lens, you'll be best served by letting the naturalists take the wildlife photos while you sit back and watch the action.
The whale-watching industry in British Columbia is deeply concerned about the welfare and health of the whales and follows strict guidelines and regulations covering travel speed and proximity. Travellers can be confident that everything is done to ensure the boats do not disturb the whales. It was heartening to note the pleasure boats followed the same procedures.
The Whale Watching Experience
After boarding and listening to the safety briefing, we headed out to sea. I grew up on the coast and spent much time sailing these waters on my father's sailboat. I have been blessed with many encounters with whales over the years. One of the most fascinating things I've noticed over the years is the growth of the humpback whale population. In my youth, humpback sightings in the Salish Sea were rare, but with careful stewardship, the population has grown to the point that it is likely that you will see more humpbacks than orcas.
The first wildlife spotting was a group of sea lions feeding and playing. We laughed as they splashed and barked at each other. We also saw orcas, porpoises, humpbacks, shore-based deer, and birds during the tour.
When whales are spotted, the boat slows to a crawl and the engines cut. A crew member raises a flag indicating the species in the area to other boaters.
The Salish Sea orcas fall into two distinct categories: the resident whales who live their entire lives in these waters and the transient whales who migrate through. Residential pods feed mainly on salmon and other fish, while transient whales often feed on sea mammals such as seals and sea lions.
The onboard naturalists are a wealth of information and stories. They share accurate information about each species and pod. These naturalists recognize individual whales and share stories specific to each.
We came across three different groups of humpbacks on our 3-hour afternoon tour. A particular highlight was watching one of the youngest (3 months old) having a grand time practicing his breaches and rolls while Mama and big sister enjoyed a lazy swim nearby. Watching the apparent delight of this youngster reminded me of a puppy playing in a puddle.
Bonus: Dinner at The Old Saltery Pub
Following our tour, we were ravenous and decided to enjoy dinner at the Old Saltery Pub on the boardwalk. The pub is filled with marine artifacts and exudes a cozy atmosphere with friendly waitstaff. There is also a broad outside seating area for those who want to enjoy the activity in the marina while dining.
Not only was there an extensive menu of tasty options, including seafood, vegetarian, and meat dishes, but there was also an option to enjoy a salmon barbeque prepared on the boardwalk across from the pub. The salmon was beautifully cooked and was accompanied by several sides, including salads and corn on the cob. We filled up on our delicious meals and were grateful for the walk back to the campsite under the starlit sky.
Final Thoughts
Telegraph Cove is a delightful Vancouver Island North road trip stop (check out my trip itinerary here). The charming village on stilts has been lovingly restored and is a gateway to many eco-tours. I urge all visitors to book your whale-watching adventure with Prince of Whales here. The knowledgeable crew and naturalists work together to ensure a safe and educational experience. Their whale spotting guarantee and commitment to conservation will give visitors comfort and a thrilling experience.
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